Biarritz, France
June 3-8See photos below
For Ashley, one of the most anticipated destinations of the entire trip was Biarritz on the southwest coast of France. With her mom and sister, she visited two summers in a row at ages 8 and 9 for part of her French language exchange (she would get to practice plenty of French again). An all time favorite photo of mine shows Ashley next to her family at the beach, standing next to a surfboard for a lesson while wearing a thigh high wetsuit and an inquisitive look on her face. Ashley would really be coming full circle, visiting both as a kid and now as an adult.
One of the premier surf destinations in the world, we would be trying our hand in the mellow, almost nonexistent summer swells. We arrived via bus from Bilbao, where we hopped on the public bus line that would take us close to our accommodation for the week. We decided to spend a bit more than usual on this hostel, and it was well worth it. Already an expensive city, there weren’t many other affordable options anyway. When we arrived in front of Nami House, the house-turned-hostel just outside of the city, we were immediately greeted with a smile and a full tour of the place. The place was amazing with so many different places to kick back and relax, both inside and outside. Since it is a converted home, it is relatively small compared to many other hostels. This made for a unique and intimate feeling in the house, with many people often joining each other on trips to the beach or walks around town. We settled in and introduced ourselves to some fellow travelers coming from Italy, Ireland, Belgium, Canada, Germany, and Argentina. Quite the international crowd. That night, the two of us took a stroll to the beach at sunset, enjoying the beautiful weather as the sun slowly dropped behind the water. That was a moment I wanted to catch in a bottle and save forever.
We slept good that night. The beds were comfortable, the people were quiet and the white noise coming from beyond the window was perfectly soothing. We woke up with fresh legs, eager to walk around the city. We sat for breakfast at a long table with the rest of the house and fueled up. After a sufficient amount of bread with butter and honey, it was time to go. We hit the road and walked the same path as the night before down to the beach, but today we made our way left to the town center. The path took us along the beachfront and up a winding bike path that gave us views below of the strip of sand that extended for miles. The road was quite panoramic, with almost 360° views. We continued on, passing a hilltop bar and many outdoor benches to take in the scenery. After about 45 minutes, we were finally in the downtown area surrounded by other people. Near the casino, a group of locals, who I presume were Basque, were dancing in what looked like a flash mob. It was amazing to see so many people, young and old, come together to celebrate tradition. There was music playing and people were watching from the side as the Frenchies got down. On we went, walking the streets and popping into various stores. We eventually stopped for lunch at an indoor-outdoor foodcourt, serving everything from Mexican food to Korean street food. We each ordered a plate and an egregiously overpriced beer that tasted like water. Nevertheless it quenched our thirst and got us out out of the hot sun. After some more strolling around, I bought a pair of Birks and proceeded to break them in on the way back to Nami House. We were both pretty exhausted when we got back, a perfect time to lounge outside in the shade. I think I dozed off for a little while before we went back inside to cook dinner and get ready for bed.
The next day we made a plan with some friends in the hostel to rent some surf boards and try to catch a few waves. When we got there, the waves were minuscule but we decided to rent a board anyway, it was good practice I guess. Waves or no waves, it was a blast being in the warm water all day, something we definitely don’t get in San Francisco. We spent the day catching six inch waves and riding them as far as we could. I have never surfed before but I was able to stand up pretty quickly, thoroughly enjoying the feeling that came with floating on the water. I absolutely want to try it again on some real waves. After a few hours splashing around, we ate back at the hostel and hit the store for some snacks and wine. Our group of seven regrouped at the hostel for a sunset walk to the lookout at the top of the bike path we had previously been to. The night was perfect as we all stood on the grass, paper cup in hand, knocking back some delicious French red. As the sunlight emptied from the sky, so did the wine in the bottles. When it got dark, we all walked back in a daze taking in the present moment that we were all experiencing together. When traveling for long periods of time, it can get lonely. Making new friends wherever you go alleviates a lot of that pressure one feels when alone. While I think that loneliness is not something to be feared at all times, it can be difficult to deal with when the comforts of home are a continent away. Having those people around you to share moments with makes a huge difference and can have a lasting effect on everything from mood to overall experience wherever you may be. The next day would be our last so we made sure to cherish the moments we shared with strangers-turned-friends.
After another solid night of sleep at Nami House, we made sure to pack our day with as much as we could. We started by joining in on breakfast with the rest of the house, chatting and laughing over some simple yet delicious fare. After properly stuffing ourselves, we threw on our swim attire for a long walk to a beach we hadn’t yet been to, almost two hours away on foot … each way. It was a beautiful walk winding through the city and beyond, past a row of surf schools and up a massive set of stairs. We continued through a quaint residential section of the city and eventually found our feet in the sand. We dropped our things and proceeded to spend the next two hours in the water, soaking up our last day in southern France. After getting nice and pruined up at the beach, we packed up and started walking back but quickly decided to hop on the bus that would take us close to Nami. For lunch it had to be crepes. We couldn’t travel all the way to France and not eat crepes at least once. Joining us were a few friends from the house, and our destination was a brand new restaurant that opened the previous day. After some delicious savory crepes, we ordered some sweet ones. When we ordered, the waiter informed us that they were sold out, so they came back with three different ones on the house! They were delicious and the staff was so kind, with a five star review quickly following.
After a nice walk to work off the confections, it was time for a little siesta at the house. When we got back we were told that for dinner the owners would be setting up a wine and cheese night. We were more than eager to learn about proper pairings, correct cheese cuts, and bread bread bread. We joined the other guests in the covered glass patio, overwhelmed by the spread laid out in front of us. There was vino and queso from all over France, ranging from cider to chardonnay to Bordeaux to sparking. Also on the table were some fruits, jams, breads, and crackers. It was a beautiful sight. I got a little too eager and snagged a piece of bread before everything started, which earned a sideways glance from one of the owners. Sorry! But not too long after, we all dug in and were educated on the correct way to cut certain cheeses, which fruits and spreads to pair with each wine and cheese, and other history and info about French wines. It was a fascinating and delicious experience that went late into the night, with plenty of wine flowing, some Indo Board sessions, and a whole lot of laughs. It was the perfect way to wrap up our time in Biarritz and get acquainted with French culture in a unique and personal way. The next day would be a stopover in Bordeaux before a flight to see my good mate Kamron in Sardinia. Overall, it was amazing to be in a place so stunningly beautiful with people that were so kind and welcoming at Nami House. It was also a treat to imagine mini Ashley roaming around the streets as a kid, hitting the beach and speaking French, just as she did with me. I will definitely be returning one day, hopefully to beaches with bigger waves and a few more crepes under my belt.
